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The folk costumes of South Estonia
preserved their old features for a long time.
Mulgimaa (Viljandi region) especially stands
out for its archaic style: cut of the shirts, unstitched wrapskirts, kerchiefs,
hip-arounds with archaic plant ornaments, linen and woollen wraps (plaids,
shawls), men's trousers.
In Võru county and Southern Tartu county old fashions were also preserved for a long time. In the southern part of Võru county common features with the Latvians could be found (the so-called Latvian mottled skirts and woollen belts, white long overcoats). Almost all over the southern part of Estonia, Russian influence can be traced (red cotton yarn in the embroideries and knitted patterns, red woollen cord for decorating coats). The most "innovative" regions, as far as new fashions were concerned, were Northern Viljandi county and Northern Tartu county from where the fashion spread also into the southern regions. During the 18th century women started wearing full skirts - unicoloured at first, vertically striped later on. The latter ones became common during the 19th century. Attribute of a married woman - the coif - was made of white linen in South Estonia. It was decorated with lace on the forehead and silk ribbons at the nape. As a new fashion, a light article of outdoor clothing - the knitted woollen jacket - became popular in the first half of the 19th century. Bodices made their appearance in the second half of the 19th century. In the course of time the Setus had taken over several features from the clothing style of the Pskov Russians (cut, red cotton yarn in knitted ornaments, girls' headdresses - chaplets, heelless stockings, etc.). At the same time common features with the South-Estonians preserved (patterned belts, hip-arounds, women's kerchiefs, men's hats, geometrical patterns, silver ornaments). |